What Clubs Should You Use?

What clubs should you use?

There is, of course, no pat answer to that question, except to say that you should use clubs that are designed for your skill level. Too often the exciting claims made by big companies are being used to lure players into buying clubs that were never designed for their level of play at all. For a mid to high handicapper to want to use clubs designed to “work” the ball is to ignore the fact that it is not just the club, but the skill of the user as well that makes that possible. Buying clubs that can work the ball when you can’t is to pass up an opportunity to buy clubs that will actually help you at your own skill level.

Conversely, for a mid to low handicap golfer to buy clubs designed to be easy to hit is to ignore the skills they have gained over the years and accept staying at their current game, bypassing the clubs to take them to the next level.

Here are a few things that fitters try to do and facts you should know for choosing your clubs:

• Stiffer shafts do not help you hit the ball farther. Nor should they be considered a macho thing to do. A club fitter tries to get you to use shafts as flexible as you can control with your swing speed. A more flexible shaft feels better when you hit the ball and gives you more “pop” at the bottom.
• You may have read that stiffer shafts give you more control. That is only true if the reason you are losing control is the shaft you have now is whippy at your swing speed. If you are not losing control because you swing too hard for that shaft, changing to a stiffer shaft will not help you at all and will feel like you are hitting a rock.
• Most golfers need more flexible shafts than they are using now.
• Also, most golfers need more loft in their drivers than they are using now. Lower lofts will only hit the ball farther if you have a very fast swing speed. Otherwise, increasing loft will help you hit the ball farther as you hit it higher and give it more time in the air. Think of throwing a baseball. If you are throwing hard, you get a certain distance by throwing a “line drive” ball, but, if you have to throw farther you will put more arc on the throw as you have no more speed to add. Same thing with a golf ball. You hit at a certain speed. If you want to hit farther, you probably need to hit higher. Most men golfers today should be playing drivers with at least 11 degrees of loft. Some 10.5 degree models hit well if they are designed with a center of gravity that is low and to the rear, but only a very good golfer will get good results with drivers with less loft than that. If you are not a very good golfer, you are missing an opportunity to buy a driver that will help you, if you ignore this.
• Driver length should also match your skill level. Most drivers that are pre-built are 45 inches to 46 inches long. Unless you are very tall or very skilled with a driver, that is too long for you to control. You may kill the occasional drive with that long length, but more likely you will hit the ball off center and lose both distance and direction. Using a 44 inch driver will have you hitting the center of the face much more often and hitting longer drives and more fairways. But, don’t forget about loft.
• Forged clubs and blades are not the same thing. Sure, virtually all blades are forged, but so are a lot of cavity backs and even oversize cavity backs. Forging is a process, not a club type. Forged clubs are made from soft steel and they have a softer feel, preferred by players who can tell a lot from feel. They don’t hit a bit farther or a bit straighter than a club made from harder steel that are made from a casting process rather than a forging process. They just have a softer feel. And they cost more because of the cost of the softer steel and the forging process. Forged clubs will not improve your game. They do feel better though.
• Ninety percent of players should not carry a three iron, but most have one in their bag. They are easy to recognize as they are the ones with the least wear. If you can’t hit it, why buy it?
• Ninety percent of players should carry a gap wedge in their bag. Also called an “A” wedge, Approach wedge or Attack wedge, these wedges fill the gap between the distances you hit a pitching wedge and a sand wedge. The reason for this gap is another – long – story, but most people would do better having a club that hits that middle distance instead of hitting trying to hit a softer pitching wedge or jump on a sand wedge. That takes more skill than most of us have so why not just carry the club that works at that distance?
• Trade the 3 iron for the gap wedge! I will be happy to make that change on club sets purchased from me.

  

  Enough rambling!

Mid to high handcappers, use clubs with more forgiveness, more offset in the irons, wider bases and a thicker top line. These clubs will be easier to hit, will hit higher and straighter and will look more hittable as you line them up on the ball.

Forget the 3 iron 4 iron and add either a 7 wood and 9 wood or rescue clubs (hybrids) with around 21 degrees loft and another with around 25 degrees loft.

Get a driver that gives you enough loft to hit the ball high. 11.5 degrees to 13.5 degrees is what you should consider.

Have your driver built shorter than what you see on the rack. 44 inches should be the maximum length for you.

Get graphite shafts in your woods, hybrids and drivers.

If you have a slow swing speed, get graphite shafts in your irons as well. You can make that change for a little as $40. If you are getting a new set of irons, spending an extra $40 could really add fun to your game!

For mid to high handicappers, I would recommend you consider getting the following clubs.

Irons:
Python XL
Python XLD
Python XLT
Viper XT
Quick Strike Q4
XPC V9

Hybrids:
Quick Strike Q4 Hybrid
HiCor Hybrid
Python XLS Hybrid

Fairway woods:

Python XLS

Mamba 2

Viper XTi

Drivers:

Viper XTi

Python XL

Mamba 2

Python XLS

Killer Bee Anti-Slice (D*)

Mid level handicappers. If you are working on improving by practicing or playing more than twice a week, consider getting clubs that are “transitional” as much as forgiving.

If you hit the 5 iron well, consider keeping a 4 iron in the bag but replacing the 3 iron with a 7 wood or hybrid.

Chose irons with a medium top line and sole width. Perhaps a little less offset is now good as well. Start chosing shafts that match your desired ball flight. Lower bend points to hit the ball higher and higer bend points to keep the ball low.

Only consider going to lower lofted drivers (less than 11.5 degrees) if you are a natural high ball hitter and getting more run out is important. Stay with 44 inch lengths unless experience has taught you that you do better with longer drivers.

For mid level handicappers, I would recommend you consider selecting from the following clubs.

Irons:

Snake Eyes 675XC

Snake Eyes 685
Python XL
Python XLD
Python XLT

Viper XT

Viper Tour

Lynx Black Cat

Hybrids:

Viper Tour Black

Quick Strike Q4

Viper XT

Fairway woods:

Viper Tour Black

Python XL

Viper XT

Drivers:

Viper Tour Black

Viper XTi

Mamba 2

Snake Eyes 675T

Hi-COR

Killer Bee LD

Killer Bee Anti-Slice (D*)

Mid to low level handicappers: You already know what works for you.

The clubs I carry that will best match your skill level are the following.

Irons:

Viper Tour

Snake Eyes 685X

Snake Eyes 685

Snake Eyes 675C

Snake Eyes 675B

Snake Eyes 675 B/C Mix

Wishon 550M

Golfsmith P2

Hybrids:

Viper Tour Black

Viper XT

Quick Strike Q4

Fairway woods:

Viper Tour Black

Viper XT

Python XL

Drivers:

Viper Tour Black

Snake Eyes 675T

Killer Bee Yellow Hornet XD

Killer Bee Yellow Hornet Long Drive (very low lofted and long shafted!)

*D indicates woods or drivers that are offset and closed face to promote a “Draw” bias. These clubs are to help golfers who cannot correct a strong fade or slice tendency with the woods.